2020 had been quiet, like everywhere else, travel restrictions meant many of us are limited to moving about in our own areas/regions. During this time, many people took up an outdoor hobby – cycling, running, paddle boarding – to keep active and to keep fit.

How suitable it was then, that my first big trip after all this time, was back touring with Wilderness Scotland on their cycling the Outer Hebrides trip. Even better, I had the same guide – Simon – whom I travelled with back in October 2019 on the Five Countries Tour.

Ever since the walking tour on Skye, I’ve wanted to return and explore more of Scotland’s islands. The Outer Hebrides is just a little off towards the Atlantic from the Isle of Skye, travelling there required me to get to Inverness, a drive across to Uig on the Isle of Skye and then onto a ferry to Lochmaddy on the Isles of Uist.

Once you are there, the isles are connected by causeways or short ferries that runs on regular basis. 

 

Alternatively – if the timing is right, there is a flight to Barra Airport on the Isle of Barra, which is the world’s only commercial airport on a beach!

The Hebridean Way

The tour roughly followed the Hebridean Way, a sign-posted cycling/walking route that follows from the bottom of the Hebrides on the Isle of Barra to the Butt of Lewis right at the top. 

Cycling here is a delight, although the roads on the islands are mostly single track roads, outside peak hours, there is hardly much traffic. As effort goes, the route is undulating, but that’s what makes interesting cycling as you rise and fall with the landscape, taking in the scenary at every curve. 

Water is everywhere, whether you are riding along the coast or up into the hills, and with water come bird life, as well as the occasional traffic of sheep and cows.

Breathtaking views

As we pdeal along each day, what drew my breath away were the views. At times, I couldn’t believe I was in Scotland. Along the coast are the white sand beaches and the acquamarine sea, a postcard picture that could rival any beach at a tropical destination. 

 

When we cycled inland, my eyes feasted on the lush green farm fields and glass still lakes. We pass quiet small hamlets, and isolated houses nestled in between the mounds of hills, a picture that seem to have just fallen out of a story book. 

Isles of history and culture

One of the best things about cycling is that you are travelling faster than by foot but slow enough to be able to really breath in everything about the destination. 

Each ‘Isle’ of the Outer Hebrides – Barra, the Uists, Harris and Lewis – had their own part in the history of this region, and cultural interests to explore.

Consider the Harris Tweed, which we were fortunate enough to be able to arrange a visit to a modern tweed weaving operation (sadly, not many people want to learn the traditional methods these days due to the labour effort needed!) is something unique to this part of the world.

 

Then there’s the birthplace of Flora MacDonald, who played a small but essential role during the Jacobite Rising by helping Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) evade government troops after the Battle of Culloden in April 1746. The location of the family home is now monument and lookout point on South Uist.

Of course, there’s a monument to Bonnie Prince Charlie himeself, at the location on the Isle of Lewis, where he supposedly landed following the Battle of Culloden.

 

In more ancient references, there are plenty of stone circles enroute. We are in Scotland afterall…

Finishing at the Butt of Lewis

The Butt of Lewis is mentioned in the Guinness Book of Records as the windiest place in the UK. It was definitive conclusion to our Hebridean cycling adventure (there’s no further north you can go!) and what a place to end. Sharp cliffs plunge into the sea beside the lighthouse harboured seabirds all around, and just a little below one of the cliffs is a secluded beach where those braver souls (not me) went for a celebratory cold swim!

Bottom notes: Travelling here

I travelled (on own expense) with Wilderness Scotland, who has a well organised 7 Days / 6 Nights Outer Hebrides Cycling trip itinerary.

Alternatively for those who like the idea of ‘bikepacking’, guidebook publisher Cicerone has a good guide on Cycling in the Hebrides which includes the Hebridean Way as well as other suggested routes.